George Wittet designed this Indo- Saracenic
style building, which houses the Prince of Wales Museum.
It also houses a priceless collection of art, sculpture,
a fine collection of miniature paintings and much more.
Amid the hustle and bustle of Mumbai stand some stately
buildings, remnants of the British Raj. Among them is
the Prince of Wales Museum, named after Prince George
(Later George V) who visited India in 1905 and laid
the foundation stone of the building. Through the arch
the Prince made his royal entrance to India as King
George V for the Delhi Darbar in 1911. This four-tiered
goliath houses a priceless collection of over 2000 miniature
paintings from various stylistic schools in India. Among
other artifacts feature a sizeable number of relics
of the Indus Valley Civilisation and instances of Tibetan
and Nepalese art.
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This building was completed in 1914
and converted to a military hospital during World
War I. Finally it was opened in 1923 by Lady Lloyd,
the wife of then governor, Sir George Lloyd.
The facing is done in yellow and blue stones quarried
from the Mumbai region. The dome is modeled after
the Gol Gumbaz in Bijapur - Karnataka. It incorporates
a variety of details from different Indian styles;
Saracenic arches with Muslim jalis as fillers, semi-open
verandahs and Rajput jharokhas. |
The structure forms a long rectangle of three storeys,
raised in the centre to accommodate the entrance porch.
Above the central arched entrance rises a huge dome,
tiled in white and blue flecks, supported on a lotus-petal
base.
There's a lot to see in the Museum. It’s a disservice
if one rushes to see it all in one go. To walk around
the key gallery is like experiencing 5,000 years of
Indian art in a capsule. The plan of the Museum is simple,
with a central hall from which the staircase leads to
the two upper floors with galleries branching out on
the right and left. An extension on the right-hand side
of the main building houses the natural history section.
The second floor houses the Indian miniature painting
gallery-the pride of the museum, and next to it is galleries
of decorative art and, to the left of the central well
of the staircase, the gallery of Tibetan and Nepali
art. Above, on the second floor are the European painting,
armoury and textile galleries. An excellent collection
of Indian miniature paintings occupies much of the second
floor. Some superb examples of the 19th century Pahari
School of painting displayed in the museum are Shiva
and Parvati (Kangra), Uma worshipping Shiva. One can
see Shiva and Parvati, where Parvati is offering Shiva
a garland of skulls. Krishna with the Cows Herds (Garhwal,
18th century) and the work drawing of the holi Festival
shows Krishna and his friends throwing colour on Radha
and her companions to celebrate the spring festival
of Holi. Other paintings of importance on display include
Aurangzeb reading the Quran (Pahari, Jammu), the painting
of Raja Balwant Deva with his Barber (Jammu, 18th century),
one can almost read the barber's thoughts, the painting
of the Lady with an Attendant and a Peacock (Pahari,
Kangra, 1775) is remarkably beautiful and lyrical work.
There are some typical examples of Deccani School of
paintings having pale green, mineral-coloured backgrounds
with figures placed squarely in the foreground. The
collection of paintings from Bundi, of the 18th century,
in this gallery deals with the theme of love. This floor
also has fine examples of Nepalese and Tibetan art,
including a beautiful 12th century Maitreya, with his
head surrounded by a halo, slightly inclined. The Tata
family, a large industrial house with interests in the
sciences and the arts, donated the collection displayed
in The Nepal and Tibet gallery. The Buddhist and Hindu
images in metal are gilded, and studded with gems. Statuettes
of Tara-the Buddhist goddess of compassion, Vajradhara-Lord
of the Thunderbolt, and of Lakshmi Narayana are studded
with turquoise, ruby and diamond. The tiny Avalokitesvara
from Nepal, of the 17th century is the most beautiful
one.
The gallery on the second floor presents an extensive
collection of art objects donated by Sir Ratan Tata
and Sir Dorab Tata and its interesting for those interested
in glass, jade and porcelain. The collection includes
objects carved in rock crystal, metal ware and lacquered
woodwork. There are samples of Indian jewelry and object
in silver, enameled jars and hookah stands. Some jade
objects and samples of Bidri work are also on display.
Fine examples of elaborate ivory work from Japan, like
the Cock on a Tree, with feathers of ivory are also
seen. There is also a section devoted to porcelain and
glassware-much of it from China. It also contains two
galleries of largely European oil paintings, including
three murky Constables, a Bonnington and a Gainsborough.
On entering this area it immediately becomes clear that
European art historians dubbed Indian paintings 'miniatures'
because they were familiar with. Rather charming are
the two portraits of Lady Ratan Tata and Lady Dorabji
Tata, which, if viewed from a distance look exactly
like portraits of English ladies, complete with gloves
and fans, dressed in the fashion of their British rulers.
On the mezzanine level, is a small gallery devoted to
Indian prehistory and protohistory, consisting largely
of primitive tools and ornaments excavated by Sir John
Marshall in Mohenjodaro in 1922. On the first floor
central balcony of the museum are displayed objects
of decorative art in ivory, silver and wood of the late
18th and the 19th centuries. Some paintings have also
been displayed in this area, leading the visitor into
the picture gallery. The paintings, donated by various
patrons, from one of India's best public collections
of work, representative of many styles and schools.
At the entrance of the gallery, to the left, in the
first cubicle, is an illustrated manuscript of the Kalpasutra
and the Kalikacharyakatha of western India, dated to
the end of the 15th century.
The Society houses spectrum of preserved flora and
fauna. At a nominal fee, you can gain access to the
old nature books in the Society library. The Natural
History Section was added to the museum from the collection
of the Bombay Natural History Society. This section
has a large selection of Indian birds, a low-tech but
educational exhibit on snakes, and stuffed examples
of the usual suspects ranging from rhinos to monkeys
and lions to deer. The highlight is definitely the freakish
20-foot-long saw fish that must have shocked fishermen
when they hauled it up in their nets in the waters off
Government House in 1938. All the exhibits are well
labeled.
Timings
10.15 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. Closed On Mondays. The dome
was designed consciously to add to the variety of the
skyline and to provide a landmark at ground level. |